Riding the Mae Hong Son Loop

Riding the Mae Hong Son Loop

Riding the Mae Hong Son Loop

Everything you need to know about riding a motorbike on the Mae Hong Son Loop in Northern Thailand.

Northern Thailand is the kind of place that lingers in your heart long after you leave.

Offering a stark contrast to the southern beaches and islands the cooler, mountainous region offers all sorts of activities including trekking, volunteering with elephants, incredible temples and one of the country’s most famous motorcycle trips, the Mae Hong Son Loop.

Starting from the gorgeous city of Chiang Mai, the Mae Hong Son Loop is a 600km journey that takes you through the Mae Hong Son province.

The main towns that you visit will be Mae Sariang, Mae Hong Son and Pai, and you can tackle the loop in either direction.

For those who wish to explore authentic Thai towns, cascading waterfalls, limestone caves and rugged wilderness this is the adventure for you!

Mae Hong Son Loop
Gorgeous views on the Mae Hong Son Loop.

The Mae Hong Son Loop is best undertaken on a semi-automatic scooter or larger motorcycle rented from Chiang Mai.

The road is notoriously difficult for inexperienced riders, with the stretch between Chiang Mai and Pai alone boasting 762 hilly curves.

For this reason we recommend doing the loop in a clockwise direction, heading through Mae Sariang first.

The road is not too busy for South-East Asian standards and is quite flat and simple – a good way to build your confidence up before you start heading into the mountains.

We recommend doing the trip in at least four days, longer if you want to enjoy some time in any of the towns (Pai especially).

We rented our scooters from the company Mr Mechanic in Chiang Mai. They offer decent bikes from your typical 100cc automatics right up to large 600cc road bikes.

Alesha and I rented 110cc semi-automatics and this was perfect for tackling the Mae Hong Son Loop. The semi-automatics are better on fuel and allow more control over mountain climbs.

Don’t be put off about the gears; They are easy to use! It will only take an hour or so if you are inexperienced to pick up the skills need to ride smoothly and it will make a world of difference on the road.

Mr Mechanic also has the option of taking out added insurance so if something goes wrong with the bike they will reimburse you for any repairs needed along the way or will deliver a new bike to any part of the loop. It doesn’t cost that much more, so may as well do it!

Would you rather grab a big bike and join a small-group tour with a bunch of other riders? Check out this cool 3-day trip around the Mae Hong Son Loop on a BMW.

Scooters Mae Hong Son Loop
Our scooters ready to take on the famous Mae Hong Son Loop.

Travel Insurance for the Mae Hong Son Loop

While Mr Mechanic does offer insurance for their motorbikes, they do not offer health or medical emergency insurance.

If you are thinking about riding a motorbike on the Mae Hong Son Loop, we highly recommend you buy travel insurance.

Unfortunately accidents do happen, and even though 95% of people who ride this magnificent stretch of Northern Thailand do so without incident, it is good to be covered in case of emergency.

Medical care in Thailand is surprisingly expensive (but that’s because the quality is so good).

If you are sitting on the fence about it, read our Do I Need Travel Insurance page and decide for yourself.

We recommend World Nomads Travel Insurance.

Our Mae Hong Son Loop Itinerary

Here we detail for you the exact route and itinerary we followed for the Mae Hong Son Loop.

We have helped hundreds of people over the years plan their motorcycle trip, and have had nothing but great feedback. We hope you enjoy it too!

Mr Mechanic Scooter Rental Chiang Mai Mae Hong Son Loop
Mr Mechanic – The company we rented our scooters from.

Day 1 – Chiang Mai To Mae Sariang (190km)

It is pretty straight-forward leaving Chiang Mai to start the Mae Hong Son Loop. From the old city, exit out the South Gate and then take Thipanet Rd (towards the airport). Follow signs to Mae Hong Son.

You cruise along Route 108 for 90km or so to the town of Hot. This drive is long, straight and very simple.

Not too much traffic to worry about. Turn right at the roundabout, continuing to follow Route 108 (signs to Mae Sariang/Mae Hong Son).

From here, the scenery drastically improves. You will be following a meandering river surrounded by lush vegetation.

A few bends and curves in the road, but nothing that will get your heart pumping. Very few elevation changes.

The town of Mae Sariang is quite pleasant, with some nice temples to check out.

Straight Strech Of Road Mae Hong Son Loop
A straight stretch of road between Chiang Mai and Mae Sariang.

Mae Sariang

Mae Sariang is a lovely town, and even though we only spent one night there during our Mae Hong Son Loop, if you had some extra days you could easily fill them up with great things to do in the surrounding countryside.

Accommodation In Mae Sariang

We stayed at the Mitaree Resort in Mae Sariang. Note that this is a budget place, and “resort” isn’t really the right word. Still, it was comfortable and adequate for us.

  • Mitaree Resort
    Address: 34/1 Waingmai Rd. Mae Sarieng
    Telephone: +66 (0) 53-68 1109
    Web: Book Mitaree Hotel On Agoda
    Pricing: 200- 800 Baht

If you are looking for something a bit higher end in Mae Sariang, Agoda has the best selection of options.

Have something booked before you arrive so you don’t spend hours riding around trying to find somewhere to rest your head.

Bonus 10% discount for NOMADasaurus readers – Use the Agoda link above and put it the code ‘AGODANMD10’ on check out to get 10% off your accommodation.

Things To Do In Mae Sariang

Don’t miss out on some of these fun things to do in Mae Sariang.

  • Markets
    There are markets on daily, but now and then if you are lucky there is a special event for some kind of celebration. When we were there there was an event about teaching farmers to grow other types of produce to discourage the cultivation of poppies for opium.It was very interesting looking at the displays of sustainable living, plantations, military installations, etc. There were performances on the stage with cultural music and dancing. The costumes were amazing. The standard night markets were full of all sorts of things to buy from meat to toiletries to vegetables to electronics.
  • Wat Chomchaeng
    This temple has a nice view of the town. There are about 40 stairs to get up there but it is a peaceful place. Remember- you are in a Buddhist temple, please be respectful and cover up. No singlets and short shorts.
  • Doi Inthanon

    The highest mountain in Thailand, this is a worthwhile detour if you are making good time on the way to Mae Sariang. You can ride to the top and will be afforded amazing views over the surrounding countryside.

Doi Intanon Creek Stalls Mae Hong Son Loop.
A small creek with basic restaurants setup in the banks near the entrance to the national park where Doi Inthanon is located.

Day 2 – Mae Sariang to Mae Hong Son (140km)

The road out of Mae Sariang begins much the same as it was coming in. Trees and few bends. But this soon changes with some nice banked curves and elevation gains.

The seemingly endless forest starts to change to gorgeous green farmland. The level of traffic drops away to be almost non-existent and there are quite a few little villages you can stop off at for a refreshing drink and a quick bite to eat.

Don’t forget to stop off at the cafe 17km from Mae Hong Son to enjoy a fresh coffee with a spectacular view. A perfect break along the Mae Hong Son Loop!

Arriving in Mae Hong Son you may be surprised at how large the town actually is. It has every kind of amenity you could possibly need and a decent selection of guesthouses.

Countryside Views. Mae Hong Son Loop
Great views over green pastures.

Mae Hong Son

Mae Hong Son is a very large town, and you can expect to find all the amenities you would need in other big towns in Thailand. It also has a great cultural feel.

Accommodation In Mae Hong Son

We stayed at the Mae Hong Son Hotel in town and really liked it.

  • Mae Hong Son Hotel
    Address: Sorry, we could not find this address online. It is off the main road, Khunlum Praphat, on a side road. If you ask a local they would be happy to help.
    Pricing: 300- 350 Baht per night

Book other accommodation in Mae Hong Son on Agoda

It is a two-storey white building with 8 rooms. The rooms are extremely large, with their own private bathroom (hot water and towel), TV and fridge.

The lady running it is very friendly and lives behind the reception area. Each room has a sitting area.

This place is hidden off the main road and down a side street. We came across it by chance and were glad we did. The lady was super friendly and very welcoming.

Coffee Shop Mae Hong Son Loop
The cafe 17km outside of Mae Hong Son. Make sure you stop off here for a coffee with a great view to break up the Mae Hong Son Loop!

Things To Do In Mae Hong Son:

  • Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu (top of the hill)
  • Temple at the bottom of the hill
  • Wat Chong Kham (near the lake)
  • Lake Jong Kum
Rest Break Mae Hong Son Loop
Taking a rest break on the way to Mae Hong Son

Day 3 – Mae Hong Son to Pai (110km)

The road is windy, but it is scenic and beautiful. You need to be very careful on this leg of the journey due to the bends and steep hills you will encounter.

Is very picturesque and the ride will probably take longer than expected as you stop for numerous photo opportunities and to check out the huge number of attractions to see.

The final 50km on this section of the Mae Hong Son Loop sees you ride to the top of a mountain pass and then descend into the valley with spectacular vistas and fun curves to take at speed if you are feeling ready!

Northern Thailand Views. Mae Hong Son Loop
Beautiful views of Northern Thailand.


Ahh yes, everybody’s favourite hippie-not-so-hippie-amazing-slightly-touristy village in Thailand!

While most backpackers end up loving it, you’ll want to set aside a few nights to judge the place for yourself.

No matter what you feel, you can’t deny its stunning beauty.

Accommodation in Pai

We have stayed at a bunch of different places in Pai over the years, but Country Huts is now our favourite.

  • Country Huts
    Address: Over the bamboo bridge, directly in front of you when you cross over.
    Pricing: 200 Baht in low season, 300 Baht in high season.
    Web: Book Country Huts on Agoda

This place is located on the other side of the river, but downtown. You have to walk over a bamboo broken bridge and it will be just to your left as you hop off.

The woman and her family that run the place are extremely friendly and will do anything to help make your stay in Pai absolutely perfect.

The bungalows are very nice with a large double bed, private bathroom and of course a hammock on the balcony to laze about it.

It was very relaxing and nice just to chill in the hammock, read a book and people watch. Of all the places we’ve stayed in Pai over the years, this is our new favourite.

  • Spicy Pai
    Address: 291 Moo 1, Mae Hee. From town head up past the swimming pool and the road to the circus school.
    Pricing: 150 Baht per person for Dorm, 450 Baht for Private Bungalow.
    Web: Book Spicy Pai on Hostel World

Spicy Pai is one of the funnest hostels you will come across in all of Thailand. It is very rustic with basic facilities, but the vibe is great.

Located amongst rice fields with spectacular views of the mountains surrounding town, Spicy Pai attracts chilled backpackers, hippies and those looking to spend their days smoking and exploring and their nights drinking and partying.

The kind of place you go for a night and spend the next two years laying in a hammock contemplating how awesome your life is.

If you want something a bit less backpacker-orientated, Pai has tonnes of other great accommodation options. Check out the choices on Agoda and

Waterfall Mae Hong Son Loop.
One of the waterfalls between Mae Hong Son and Pai.

Things To Do In Pai

Things To Do On The Ride

  • Pha Sua Waterfall
    This waterfall is on the Route 1095 to Pai. It is well signed so don’t worry about missing the turn off. It is a beautiful and large waterfall and you ride through some very pleasant villages to get there. It is definitely worth a stop
Village Mae Hong Son Loop
One of the villages we stumbled across during our ride.

Day 4 – Pai to Chiang Mai (130km)

The most popular section of the Mae Hong Son Loop is this one, with minibuses and other tourists plying the route at all times of the day.

Directly out of Pai you start to climb another steep hill and the 762 bends come at you hard and fast.

The nature changes with the altitude gain and you are eventually riding through the sweet aroma wafting from pine trees.

You stay at height for a while and then begin to descend, offering more sensational views and tight corners.

Plenty of villages provide ample rest opportunities. Eventually, you reach the highway for the anti-climatic end to your ride to Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai To Pai Road Mae Hong Son Loop
A great hairpin turn between Pai and Chiang Mai. There are 762 curves on this stretch of road, and it is the most compex part of the Mae Hong Son Loop. Keep your concentration levels up!

Chiang Mai

There’s a reason Chiang Mai is known as the cultural capital of Thailand, and the moment you explore its historic old town you’ll begin to feel the beautiful power of the Buddhist temples and shrines.

It’s also the starting and ending point of 99% of riders on the Mae Hong Son Loop, so you’ll end up spending quite a bit of time here. Enjoy!

Accommodation In Chiang Mai
  • CM Blue House
    Address: 30-1 Moonmuang Rd. Soi 6, Chiang Mai
    Pricing: 300 Baht Fan/ 450 Baht A/C (Low Season), 350 Baht Fan/ 500 Baht A/C (High Season)It is a two story light blue building located in the old city. The rooms are large with their own private bathrooms (with hot water and towels). You can choose from fan or air conditioning.They have a garden area on the side for you to sit in and enjoy some outdoor time. They have refreshments available on an honesty system and when you check out you fix up that side also.We have stayed in Chiang Mai a couple of times now and wish we found this little gem earlier.

Check out the other great accommodation options in Chiang Mai on Agoda and

Waterfall Northern Thailand
Beautiful waterfalls are everywhere to explore on the Mae Hong Son Loop.

Things To Do In Chiang Mai

We would love to tell you what we loved but everyone is different and has their own ideas of things worth exploring. Make sure check out our post on “Things to do in Chiang Mai” as this is a magical city. Our favourite attractions were:

  • Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
    Located at the top of Doi Suthep mountain this is one of the most picturesque temples in all of the Chiang Mai region. The ride to the top is beautiful with lots of great places to stop off and see along the way.
    Check out Lesh’s Vipassana Meditation Retreat post here.
  • Sunday night walking street or Saturday night markets
    Always a fun place to pick up a gift or be adventurous with some different foods. Both markets are large, but the Sunday walking market is huge. This one was our favourite and it vines off into many side streets also. While you are enjoying your evening, you will be entertained by all kinds of different music from the street performers.
Mae Hong Son Loop Scooter
Jazza and Alesha, all smiles during the Mae Hong Son Loop. One of the highlights of Northern Thailand.

[box] Thanks so much for reading our Mae Hong Son Loop travel guide! We hope you found it helpful. If you did please leave a comment below! Ride safe.[/box]

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